Just seven minutes’ walk from JR Kyoto Station is the grand complex of Higashi Honganji Temple, one of the great popular centers of Buddhism in Kyoto, and entry to it is completely free. This article is a short guide to its history and main buildings.
Higashi Honganji Temple grounds viewed from the Amida Hall
History
Higashi Honganji, officially known as Shinshu Honbyo, is the mother temple of the Shinshu Otani-ha branch of Jodo Shinshu, or Shin Buddhism, one of Japan’s largest Buddhist denominations. A few blocks to the west stands Nishi Honganji, the western Honganji temple. Jodo Shinshu teachings were clarified by a monk named Shinran (1173–1263), who taught the recitation of “namu amida butsu” or “Praise to Amida Buddha” in trust in Amida Buddha’s vow. The combination of a simple teaching with a simple practice made Shinran’s belief system very popular with ordinary working people.
After Shinran’s death a memorial hall was established to honor him and promote his teachings, but this institution was forced to move several times before finally being granted land in Kyoto. In 1602, shortly after Tokugawa Ieyasu became Japan’s Shogun, or military ruler, he donated land east of the original Honganji temple to Kyonyo. This eastern temple became Higashi Honganji, while the temple to the west became known as Nishi Honganji.
A portrait of the monk Shinran – Public Domain
Established on this site in the early 17th century, the Higashi Honganji temple buildings were destroyed four times by fire, the most recent conflagration being in 1864 during a time of political and civil turmoil. Most of the present buildings were rebuilt in the late 19th century and early 20th century, and the main halls underwent major restoration work between 2004 and 2016.
The Goei-do
Built to impress: the Founder’s Hall is 76 meters (250 feet) in length, 58 meters (190 feet) in width, 38 meters (125 feet) in height
The Goei-do, or Founder’s Hall, is the largest wooden building in Kyoto, and one of the largest in the world. This building was rebuilt in 1895 and is the most important structure in the temple compound. The hall was designated an Important Cultural Property in 2019, and restoration work from 2004 to 2009 reinforced its foundations and pillars against earthquakes.
Step inside the massive high ceilinged space, hung with gold chandeliers and supported by 90 pillars and admire the shining sanctuary. Sitting in this quiet, tranquil place on the tatami matted floor you can certainly feel the sanctity. Visitors should follow the temple’s photography rules: photography and video are not allowed during services and rituals in the halls, and flash photography is not allowed in the halls.
On the main altar before you there is a wooden statue depicting Shinran, the founder of the Jodo Shinshu tradition. Behind Shinran, on the walls is a painting of red and white lotuses by Kōno Bairei, a Meiji era artist who was famous for his realistic depictions of birds and flowers. Above the altar you can see the framed characters 見真, kenshin or “see truth,” written in gold. Kenshin was a posthumous title given to Shinran by the Emperor Meiji and the characters are a copy of the emperor’s own calligraphy. A similar calligraphic dedication is housed in the Founder’s Hall at Nishi Honganji Temple too.
Above the sanctuary as a whole runs a carved ranma lattice, covered in gold leaf that shows heavenly figures playing lutes, bells, cymbals and other musical instruments.
The Amida-do
The Amida Hall
This building was also rebuilt in 1895 and was restored in renovation work undertaken from 2012 through 2015. It is 52 meters in length, 47 meters in width, and 29 meters in height, and was designated an Important Cultural Property in 2019.
On the central altar is enshrined a statue of Amida Buddha. The gold-leaf altar area represents the world described in the Amida Sutra, and images of figures connected to the Jodo Shinshu tradition, including Honen and Prince Shōtoku Taishi, are displayed to either side.
Exhibits
One of many wooden sleds that were used to transport colossal trees from the mountains
There are some interesting exhibits on the wooden walkway that connects the Founder’s Hall and the Amida Hall. These are all related to the tremendous human investment that went into the rebuilding of the temple in the late 19th century. We can see a large wooden sled, one of many that were used to transport lumber from the mountains for the reconstruction.
There is also a diorama that depicts an avalanche overwhelming people on a snowy mountainside who are trying to transport timber for the new temple. Apparently many people lost their lives in this way, and the temple commemorates their sacrifice. Close by in a glass case is an enormous coiled rope that is actually made of human hair. Female devotees of the temple, cut their long hair and sent it to Higashi Honganji, where it was woven into gigantic ropes. These ropes were then used to haul the gigantic beams of the new buildings into place.
The diorama of lumber being transported from the mountains
The Reception Hall & Gallery
The reception hall
On the north side of the temple grounds is the Sanpai Settai-sho, or temple services reception center, which connects with a gallery and audio-visual hall. The gallery has a permanent exhibition on Shinran’s life, with descriptions in both English and Japanese, and it also holds special exhibitions several times a year.
Admission to the gallery is free. The reception hall was designed by Goichi Takeda the founder of the architecture department at Kyoto University and completed in 1934. The gallery and audio-visual hall are housed in a futuristic building which though mostly underground, is cleverly lit with natural light. It was designed by Shin Takamatsu and completed in 1998.
The temple gallery
The Gates
Higashi Honganji’s gates are also of some interest.
The Amida Hall Gate
The Amida-do-mon, or Amida Hall Gate is the southernmost entry point. It was destroyed by the fires of the late Edo period, but the present gate was rebuilt in 1911. It was designated an Important Cultural Property in 2019, and underwent major conservation repair work from 2021 to 2022.
The Founder’s Hall Gate
The grandest gate on the grounds is the Goei-do-mon, the Founder’s Hall Gate which was completed in 1911. This gate has two stories and two roofs and is 27 meters (89 feet) in height. It was designated an Important Cultural Property in 2019.
The Chrysanthemum Gate
The Imperial Messenger’s Gate, is also called the Chrysanthemum Gate, because it has two imperial chrysanthemum crests on its doors. This gate is normally kept closed, as it is strictly for the use of imperial messengers! The original gate here also came from Fushimi Castle, but was destroyed in 1864. This reconstruction was completed in 1913.
The Formal Entrance Gate
The Genkan-mon, or Formal Entrance Gate is also normally kept closed except for special ceremonies. This gate is the northernmost entrance to the grounds and was completed in 1911.
Looking south towards Kyoto Station from the temple’s outer walls
Higashi Honganji Temple Location Map
From the north central exit of Kyoto Station head north on Karasuma Street. You will pass both Kyoto Tower and the Yodobashi department store on your left before you see Higashi Honganji Temple on the north side of Shichijo Street, about 7 minutes on foot from JR Kyoto Station. The temple is also 5 minutes on foot from Gojo Station on the subway and 1 minute from the Karasuma Shichijo bus stop. It is easily recognizable by the large sign on its outer walls on which thought provoking words are written in multiple languages: “Now, Life is living you”.
Opening Hours:
March – October: 5:50 am – 17:30
November – February: 6:20 am – 16:30
Article and original photos by Michael Lambe. All rights reserved. Last updated 30-Jun-2026.
